Lush and Verdant Ancient Forests of Yakushima

Posted on November 23, 2024  •  5 minutes  • 875 words  • Other languages:  Korean

Journey to Yakushima

On the first day of my trip, I took a morning flight to Fukuoka, exchanged my physical JR Pass, and stayed in Fukuoka for the day.
The plan was to activate the JR Pass on the second day to maximize its use.
So, in a way, my first day wasn’t about heading straight to Yakushima but rather a preview of Fukuoka.

During the day, I did some light shopping around Hakata Station and enjoyed Fukuoka’s nightlife, exploring Canal City and Nakasu in the evening.

The next day, I boarded the Shinkansen bound for Kagoshima.

After arriving at Kagoshima Chuo Station, I stopped by the travel center to ask about directions to the ferry terminal.
Although they suggested taking the tram close to the terminal, I decided to enjoy a leisurely walk instead.

Strolling through these local streets, it finally hit me: “This is the real start of my journey in Japan.”

After nearly an hour of walking, I arrived at the ferry terminal and purchased a round-trip ticket to Yakushima for about 20,000 yen.
Without thoroughly checking the ferry schedules beforehand, there were a few hiccups, but in the end, I was ready to head to my first destination in Japan: Yakushima.

A Unique Island Unlike Anywhere Else in Japan

My first impression of Yakushima was that it felt strikingly different from mainland Japan, even to a first-time visitor like me.
As the rumors say, it rains 366 days a year here. True to its reputation, a gloomy and heavy atmosphere greeted me as I arrived on the island.
With its azure coastline, mist-covered mountains, and small villages nestled in between, the scenery left a lasting impression as I boarded the bus to my accommodation.

The guesthouse “Tomarigi” is one of the most frequently recommended accommodations for travelers to Yakushima, so I decided to stay there for a night out of curiosity.

One of the best things about choosing a guesthouse over a hotel is undoubtedly the cozy atmosphere.
Tomarigi perfectly embodied this, with its hand-drawn fish illustrations, shelves full of manga, travel guides, and photos left by previous guests—all combining to create a warm and inviting vibe.

After a quick orientation from the owner, a friend named Bow from Australia asked if I wanted to join him for dinner.
Without hesitation, I agreed, as I was feeling uncertain about navigating the area alone with buses that only ran every hour.
Together, we explored Yakushima’s local markets, strolled through its small towns, and enjoyed sushi.
Traveling comfortably by car and chatting leisurely with a laid-back Australian companion made for a relaxing and memorable evening.

The next morning, I set off early for Shiratani Unsuikyo, the forest that inspired Princess Mononoke.

It was time to bid farewell to Tomarigi’s cozy charm and the white, odd-eyed cat guarding the place.

The Forest of Princess Mononoke

As expected, Shiratani Unsuikyo welcomed me with lush green forests and the soothing sound of flowing water.

Everywhere I went, the dense greenery of nature unfolded before my eyes.
Even the rocks and fallen trees were covered in vivid green moss, making it truly feel like stepping into the forest from Princess Mononoke.

It felt like Kodama from the movie could have been perched right there on the mossy rocks.

The trekking course to the summit of Shiratani Unsuikyo took about 4 to 5 hours.
Having done similar hikes in Korea, the length of the course wasn’t an issue.
However, walking on moss-covered paths required extra caution due to the slipperiness, which made the hike more exhausting.
This problem, unfortunately, escalated during the descent.

After spending about 20 minutes enjoying the open view at the summit, I began my descent with a light heart.
But an unexpected challenge awaited me.
It started to rain—heavily.
Thankfully, I had a raincoat ready, so I avoided getting soaked to the skin, but the moss underfoot, now soaked with water, became even more slippery, making the descent physically demanding.
However, there was an unexpected reward: the breathtaking view of a rain-soaked primeval forest.

This video marked the end of my filming, as I had to tuck my camera away to keep it dry.
Still, the mystical atmosphere of the fog-laden rainforest left an indelible impression on me.

A Flawed Travel Plan

I’m not one to overanalyze MBTI, but I’ve always thought of myself as someone with a strong J-type personality: someone who enjoys planning and feels fulfilled by executing those plans.
However, this trip taught me something new about myself: I love broad, long-term plans but struggle with detailed, short-term ones.
For this trip, I had laid out a general itinerary but lacked the specific planning to support it.
Yakushima was a stark reminder of this flaw.
I didn’t adequately research ferry schedules or local transportation.
Looking back, I can’t help but think how reckless and audacious I was.

Yet, it was precisely this lack of preparation that added a certain charm to the journey.
That’s why Yakushima stands out in my memory as a whirlwind of an experience—exhausting yet thrilling and profoundly moving.
If I ever get the chance to visit Yakushima again, I’d like to do it with a rental car, a longer stay, and perhaps a friend by my side.